Encyclopedia of gardening. Galina Kizima - a large encyclopedia of a gardener-gardener from a to z

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Galina Kizima
Encyclopedia of the gardener and florist for beginners in understandable drawings and diagrams. Seen - repeat

© Kizima G., text

© Melnik L., ill., 2010

© Laukanen L., ill., 2017

© AST Publishing House LLC, 2018

Seed crops - apples and pears

Apple tree- this is a very plastic plant, undemanding to growing conditions, so the apple tree has managed to spread from the subtropics to the most northern regions and even climbed into the mountains, where it grows at an altitude of more than 2.5 thousand meters above sea level.

In terms of area, apple orchards are in third place in the world after vineyards and olive groves. Even orange groves take place only after apple orchards. According to the Bible, apples were created before we were. Of course, now these are not at all the wild fruits that were known to mankind already 5-6 thousand years ago. Thanks to the work of a huge army of breeders, apples have become what we use. They can reach about 1 kg of weight and huge sizes, be of the most diverse colors (except blue, blue, purple), have a shape from narrow-conical to round and flattened, have different tastes and aromas. In addition, apples are useful to everyone, without exception, due to the high content of pectin substances that help our body remove toxins accumulated in it. A variety of macro- and microelements, almost all vitamins and organic acids necessary for a person contain the fruits of this beautiful plant. Plant apple trees! They also require minimal care, and yields are considerable. This non-capricious, grateful plant will give you health and longevity with the smallest effort on your part. No wonder there is a saying that an eaten apple prolongs life by one hour.

Pears also known to mankind for thousands of years. In principle, these are centenarians, their average age is about 100 years. There are pears that are 500 and even 1000 years old! I must say that if the apple tree has a periodicity in fruiting (one year is empty, the other year is dense), then the pear bears fruit regularly. In addition, pear is a cross-pollinated plant. She needs at least one more pear, preferably a different variety, while an apple tree can grow alone, although it also prefers company.

A pear is a plant that is more demanding on light and heat than an apple tree, and much less plastic, so its distribution area is much smaller than that of an apple tree. A pear is a tall plant, it can reach 25 m in height, and only three men can wrap their arms around the trunk of such a pear. The wood of the trees is unusually strong and is used in turning, for the manufacture of musical instruments, decorative sculpture, and jewelry.

Its fruits can reach 2 kg of weight! Pears, although tasty and healthy, are significantly inferior to apples. In addition, they practically do not contain pectins, but pear fruits contain arbutin, and therefore pears are especially useful for people with kidney and urinary tract diseases. Although pear fruits contain much less polysaccharides than apple fruits, they seem sweeter because they contain less organic acids. Pears and apple trees have a lot in common, especially in choosing a place for planting, in requirements for growing conditions, and planting methods. They have common pests and diseases, and therefore everything will be told here about apple trees, since this is also suitable for pears. Special, pear-specific nuances will simply be further emphasized.

What do apple and pear trees like? Like most plants, the apple tree prefers soil with a neutral, in extreme cases with a slightly acid reaction, rich in organic matter and potassium. This is a potassium-loving plant, do not forget about it! The pear also belongs to the potassium-loving group, however, it needs a little more phosphorus and less potassium than the apple tree. But at the same time, the apple tree will grow and even bear fruit on clay or peat, on sandy and stony soil, which is rather scarce. In principle, the plant is quite moisture-loving, but it is quite reconciled with slight droughts. It tolerates rather large frosts, and therefore managed to take root in the rather harsh northern latitudes. The apple tree needs a good place in the sun. She, of course, will put up with partial shade, but in such a humid region as the North-West, where there is little light anyway, lichen will quickly begin to overcome the apple tree in partial shade.

What do apple and pear trees dislike? Carbonate or acidic soils, solonchaks. Too dry places do not suit them, and a very hot, humid climate does not suit them, which is why the apple tree does not grow in tropical forests. But, most importantly, she does not like the close standing of groundwater. Once in such a waterlogged layer, the roots of the plant rot and the tree dies.

Selection and planting of seedlings

When to plant an apple (and pear) tree? Generally speaking, in the spring. In the Northwest, the best landing time is May. The apple tree is sleepy, it wakes up relatively late, unfolds its leaves late, the root system starts to work only when the soil in the zone of occurrence of sucking roots warms up to 8 degrees Celsius. In the Northwest, the soils are poor in humus, so they are cold. They warm up slowly due to the fact that cold comes from the lower layers of the earth, and the above-ground temperature is low, which is why the upper layer also warms up slowly. Under such conditions, a dormant apple tree easily tolerates transportation and transplantation in May.

seat

First of all, you need to choose a place on the site so that the trees are covered from the northern winds. It is better if there are other plants along the northern border, for example, spruces, maples (naturally, outside the boundaries of your site), irga, red mountain ash, sea buckthorn. In the south, in front of the house, you can plant a couple of fruit trees, but you should not plant the whole garden, because in ten years there will be a solid shadow in front of the house, in which only grass will grow well. And our plots are small, and the precious area under the sun should not be squandered.

Fruit trees can be placed in 1-2 rows along one of the boundaries of the site (but not from the south!), Stepping back from the border of the neighboring plot, as expected, 3-4 m. To prevent these precious meters from disappearing, plant berry trees between the trees and the border shrubs. For example, you can plant raspberries (which are very friendly with an apple tree, and can also bear fruit in partial shade) or blackcurrant (which can also bear fruit in partial shade), leaving 1–1.5 m to the border, so that it is convenient to work with berries, not crossing the border. The root system of raspberry and blackcurrant is located in the surface layer of the soil, and the root system of the apple tree is located below, so there will be no competition for moisture and nutrition between these berry bushes and trees.

With regular planning of the site (and, accordingly, landing) and paths are arranged in rows. The area is used very rationally, and quite a lot of plants can be placed on 6 acres.

Trees are planted at a distance of 4 m from each other, and shrubs - 1–1.5 m.

If you have a larger plot, then you can plant trees in a group in one or two places, according to the 4 × 4 m scheme. Then it is not necessary to make straight paths - make them winding, flowing around the planting groups. Visually, such a free composition of the garden with winding paths increases the space of the garden, but there are much fewer plants in the same area as with a regular layout.

Usually, as mentioned above, fruit trees are planted in the spring. But a seat for trees should be prepared in the fall. It all depends on what kind of soil you have and at what depth the groundwater occurs. If there is clay or heavy loam on the site, then trees cannot be planted in the pits. The clay does not allow water to pass through; during the autumn rains, the planting pit will fill with water. In winter, it will freeze through, which, of course, will cause the death of the root system. Do not plant in pits and peat bogs, as well as where groundwater lies close (less than 1 m). In all these cases, mounds should be poured, about 60–80 cm high and at least 1 m in diameter. In subsequent years, the mound should be expanded. To do this, it is enough to pour a compost heap around it, and so that the perimeter of the tree has a neat appearance, each time pour peat or sand over the garbage and weeds. If you use peat, then remember that it acidifies the soil under the apple tree, and it prefers soil with a neutral reaction, so be sure to add ash to the peat at the rate of 1 half-liter jar for each bucket of peat (or 1 glass of lime or dolomite).

If you have ordinary soil (sandy loam or light loam, and even more so, arable land), then you can generally plant it on a flat surface. You just need to remove the top layer of soil. Turn the sod over and lay it around the seat, creating a frame. Pull out the roots and rhizomes of perennial weeds. Make a small indentation (15–20 cm), fold the excavated earth onto the frame. Bring a mound of fertile, moistened soil into the center of the deepening and plant a seedling on this mound. Sprinkle good soil on top flush with the frame.

But if you have sand, then you will have to dig a landing hole measuring 80 × 80 × 80 cm. In the lower part of the hole, add the same rubbish that was recommended for building a hill above the ground. Sphagnum moss should then be added to retain moisture and nutrients. After that, fill the pit with fertile soil (or put compost in it all summer). Plant a seedling next spring.

Planting seedlings

Almost all authors of books on agriculture recommend dipping the roots of a seedling in a clay mash before planting. But it is well known that clay does not allow moisture to pass through, so the roots do not dry out, but they cannot take water from the soil either. On the contrary, before planting, any seedling must be placed in water for 2–3 hours so that the tree is saturated with moisture, and then immediately planted in place.

Do not keep seedlings in water for more than 2–3 hours before planting: they will lose a significant part of potassium, and this will have a bad effect on their survival and further growth.

Contrary to the well-established recommendations wandering from book to book, do not trample down the soil under the trees after planting. Moist soil compacted by trampling does not allow air to pass through, and the roots will experience oxygen starvation. In order for the soil to fill the voids and stick to the roots from all sides, it is necessary not to trample at all, but gradually pour the soil on top of the roots and immediately pour water from a watering can, pour it again, and water it again.

Here the water will wash the soil into the voids and stick around all the roots with moist soil, moreover, it will leave free air access to the roots. So stop following the wrong advice rooted in books.

After planting, the seedling should be tied up, otherwise, in loose soil, the wind will loosen the root system and the seedling will simply fall. But how exactly to bind? Have you, of course, paid attention to how seedlings are tied when planting greenery in the city? So tie it - to three stakes. This is the most reliable way. And if you are used to tying to two, then drive the stakes not from the south and north of the seedling, as recommended in the books (the explanations on this are unintelligible), but drive the stakes in the direction of the prevailing winds in your area. Western winds prevail in the Northwest, which means that stakes must be driven in from the west and east of the seedling. Then the strapping will keep the seedling from swinging in the wind. If you are planting a one-year-old twig or planting a plant grown in a container, then you do not need to tie it up.

There is one more nuance. A plant develops correctly when there is a balance between its root system and the aerial part. When planting a seedling, its root system is broken, the root sucking hairs are torn off, and the seedling does not supply moisture well to the top. And the leaves at the same time evaporate moisture as if nothing had happened, so the trunk dehydrates. Sometimes after landing such a picture is observed. They planted a tree or a bush, the plant spread its leaves and suddenly for no reason dried up, despite abundant watering. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to shorten the aerial part of the plant when planting, that is, shorten the central conductor and all branches by a quarter (and in dry times even by a third) of their length. Then the balance between the weakened root system and the aerial part too large for it will be restored, and the seedling will take root well. This, of course, does not apply to seedlings grown in a container.

Big mistake - deep planting seedling

This usually leads to a delay in the timing of the entry of the tree into fruiting. In addition, deep planting promotes the appearance of root shoots. Trees should generally stand on their roots. Thick roots extending from the trunk are a conductive sewerage and plumbing system, so to speak. Such roots do not absorb anything, but only conduct nutrient juices up and down. They are not afraid of frost and have the same frost resistance as the wood itself. But the tender, absorbing part of the root system, young, thin roots can freeze slightly. They are usually located along the perimeter of the tree crown. That's why they need to be well taken care of. Feed, water, cover for the winter if you have snowless or too harsh winters. The stem of a tree can also freeze slightly, even with relatively slight frosts, but this will be discussed below. In the Northwest, the roots of trees spread quite far beyond the crown perimeter, since the roots do not go deep into cold and barren soils, but prefer to spread out in a small arable soil layer only 40–50 cm thick and therefore vulnerable to large sudden frosts after a thaw. Therefore, I recommend not to rake the leaves in autumn, but, on the contrary, to throw them around the trees. Do not be afraid of supposedly wintering pests and pathogens on the leaves, they are no more and no less than during the spring and autumn digging of tree trunks. This, by the way, is also misleading. The less you dig, the better the tree will bear fruit.

Feeding seedlings and trees

Do I need to apply fertilizer when planting a seedling? It all depends on what kind of soil you have at the planting site. If it's good garden soil, then don't. If it is solid sand, then any complex mineral fertilizer that slowly dissolves in water must be applied. For an annual seedling, it is quite enough to add, for example, 1 tbsp. spoon "Aquarin" Buysky chemical plant. Or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granulated, water-insoluble AVA fertilizer. By the way, it will last for three years. At worst, you can make 1 tbsp. a spoonful of "Azofoski", even better - "Ekofoski" or "Kemira".

In addition, you need to add organic matter. In sandy or sandy loam or podzolic soils - 2-3 buckets of rotted compost or manure for a one-year-old seedling. Under a two-year-old seedling, the dose should be doubled, and under a three-year-old - three times.

If the soil is peat, then it is better to deoxidize it, and not to apply mineral fertilizers. Organics on such soils in the first year of a seedling's life is also not needed. As mentioned above, trees are not planted in clay, but the hill that will have to be poured on top of it must contain both organic and mineral fertilizers.

When and how to feed trees? The basic principle of any top dressing is that we take out, we bring in. That is, how many and what kind of minerals we carry away with the harvest, then we must return them back to the soil. In addition, it is also necessary to provide food for soil microorganisms, that is, to bring unrotted organic matter under the tree. The easiest way to do this is to do this without removing anything from under the tree - fallen leaves, weeds weeded or cut at the soil level, and if necessary, then put compost either in trenches (when planting in pits) or directly on the soil (when planting on a hill or flat surface) along the perimeter of the crown.

The apple tree is a potassium-loving plant. Unlike garden plants, which should be fed and watered all season, fruit and berry plants need mineral supplements twice a season. The first should be done in the spring, at the moment the leaves turn. Plants need nitrogen and potassium at this time. But the dose of potassium should be divided into spring and late summer. Thus, with spring top dressing, you should take 9 tbsp. spoons of nitrogen and potassium. In total there will be 18 tbsp. spoons per 16 m 2 of food area. Thus, a little more than 1 tbsp is enough. spoons per 1 m 2. If you use potassium nitrate, then 1 tbsp is enough. dissolve a spoon in 10 liters of water, to which you must additionally add 1/2 tbsp. tablespoons of urea and pour around the perimeter of the tree crown for one running meter. And in order to feed an adult apple tree, you will need to pour 16 buckets of the solution prepared in this way under it.

You can use specialized top dressing for fruit and berry plants of the Buysky chemical plant, you can only use Aquarin or Omu. Enough 3 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water. Or take Ecofoska or Kemira. At worst, use 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea and 2 tbsp. spoons of carbonate or potassium sulphate (or potassium magnesia) per 10 liters of water. If there are no mineral fertilizers at all, pour the ground under the tree along the perimeter of the crown with a solution of manure (or feces) diluted with water 1: 10 (if you use bird droppings, then prepare the solution 1: 20). Pour it around the perimeter of the crown of the apple tree, and after a week, pour ash on a wet surface at the rate of 1 cup for a one-year-old seedling.

The nutrient solution is prepared at the rate of 10 liters per square meter of soil surface. An adult apple tree requires a feeding area of ​​​​4 × 4 m 2, therefore, it is necessary to feed at least 16 buckets of the solution, but it must be poured along the perimeter of the tree crown. A berry bush needs a feeding area of ​​1.5 × 1.5 \u003d 2.25 m 2. Therefore, it is enough to pour 2 buckets of solution under it (again, along the perimeter of the crown, and for blackcurrant even beyond the perimeter of the crown). In the North-West, the first spring top dressing should be given no earlier than in early June, when spring frosts have passed, because nitrogen reduces the frost resistance of plants by almost 2 degrees.

The second mineral dressing is needed for fruit and berry crops at the end of summer, when a young root system begins to grow in them. In mid-late August, prepare a solution of double granular superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and potassium (1 tablespoon), not containing chlorine, in 10 liters of water. And pour this solution at the rate of 10 liters per square meter (naturally, along the perimeter of the plant crown). Don't worry that superphosphate won't dissolve in cold water. Gradually, it will penetrate the root zone and even remain in the soil for the next season. But you can use ready-made autumn fertilizer for fruit and berry plants. Or, once every three years, you will plant 3 st. spoons of AVA granular complex fertilizer. To do this, simply draw a groove around the apple tree with the corner of the weeder. Distribute the fertilizer evenly and cover it with soil. This fertilizer does not dissolve in water, and therefore is not washed out of the soil. The plant consumes it sparingly and evenly throughout the season. The fertilizer dissolves in organic soil acids (partially, the roots themselves secrete these acids, dissolving the fertilizer as needed). It is only necessary to remember that fertilizer does not work in alkaline environments, therefore, ash, dolomite, lime and other deoxidizers should not be applied simultaneously with it.

If you fold compost every 2–3 years along the perimeter of the crown of one or another apple tree, then no additional feeding will be required for the tree, with the exception of trace elements.

The yield of a pear is half that of an apple tree, with the same required feeding area 4 × 4 m \u003d \u003d 16 m 2 - only about 3 kg per 1 m 2. And therefore, the removal with a harvest of mineral elements per season is significantly less: 7 g of nitrogen, 3 g of pure phosphorus and 8 g of pure potassium from each square meter of food area. Agronorm - 18, balance - 41: 15: 44, that is, a pear needs increased doses of phosphorus and slightly lower doses of potassium than an apple tree. Hence, the feeding norms given for the apple tree should be taken for a pear half as much as for an apple tree. To prepare the solution, the dose of phosphorus must be increased by 1/3 tbsp. spoons, and potassium, respectively, reduce by 1/3 tbsp. spoons. That's all there is to it.

Watering

How much water do apple trees need? A lot of. And most importantly - on time. The first watering should be done in the spring, after flowering. In the Northwest, at this time, there is a large supply of water in the soils, so watering can not be done (with the exception of rare hot and very dry weather in April-May).

The second watering should be done when the ovaries grow the size of a walnut. If at this time there is not enough moisture in the soil, the apple tree will begin to shed its ovaries. The third watering should be done after harvest. If there is a long, dry autumn, then the trees and shrubs cannot be allowed to go into the winter dehydrated, so another watering will have to be done. This usually does not apply to the Northwest, because continuous rains begin at the end of October.

How much water should be poured when watering trees? Usually as many buckets as the tree is old. And do not forget: water should not be poured under the trunk, but along the perimeter of the tree crown. Often gardeners throw a hose right at the trunk, and the pump pumps water for no one knows for whom. You come to such a gardener, you dig with him the next day after watering the earth along the perimeter of the crown, and there, to his complete amazement, it is dry, as there was no watering. All work down the drain. So, my dears, when watering from a hose, you will have to be with it all the time and direct a stream of water around the perimeter of the tree crown, and not pour at one point, but constantly move or move the hose.

It should be noted that the pear is more drought-resistant than the apple tree.

New encyclopedia of the gardener and gardener (updated and revised edition) Oktyabrina Ganichkina, Alexander Ganichkin

(ratings: 2 , average: 3,50 out of 5)

Title: New encyclopedia of the gardener and gardener (updated and revised edition)
Author: Oktyabrina Ganichkina, Alexander Ganichkin
Year: 2015
Genre: Manuals, Gardening, Hobbies, Crafts, Encyclopedias

About the book "The New Encyclopedia of the Gardener and Gardener (Supplemented and Revised Edition)" Oktyabrina Ganichkina, Alexander Ganichkin

This encyclopedia is the most complete and detailed guide for gardeners and gardeners who dream of getting a high yield and rational use of their suburban area. It contains comprehensive information on the cultivation and protection of vegetable, fruit and ornamental plants.

Edition supplemented and revised.

On our site about books, you can download the site for free without registration or read online the book “The New Encyclopedia of the Gardener and Gardener (Augmented and Revised Edition)” by Oktyabrina Ganichkina, Alexander Ganichkin in epub, fb2, txt, rtf, pdf formats for iPad, iPhone, Android and Kindle. The book will give you a lot of pleasant moments and a real pleasure to read. You can buy the full version from our partner. Also, here you will find the latest news from the literary world, learn the biography of your favorite authors. For novice writers, there is a separate section with useful tips and tricks, interesting articles, thanks to which you can try your hand at writing.

Quotes from the book "The New Encyclopedia of the Gardener and Gardener (Supplemented and Revised Edition)" Oktyabrina Ganichkina, Alexander Ganichkin

At the beginning of the summer period, when the plum begins to actively throw out shoots, the excess ones are cut off so that there is a good growth on the left shoots. The crown should receive a lot of light. After winter in April - May, damaged shoots must be cut off. It is also necessary to remove the root growth. To do this, the soil is raked from the root neck and the shoots are cut off, leaving no stumps. If the tree does not grow well, rejuvenating pruning is done, that is, perennial branches are shortened. Pruning is carried out from March to April - May. During the summer, you can cut the growing branches with a diameter of no more than 2.5 cm without putty.
When pruning plums, it is necessary to take into account a number of biological features of the tree. Plum is characterized by vigorous growth, especially in the first years of growth, the tendency of shoots to branch and the early maturity of the buds. The branches give an increase of up to 2 m in length and grow unevenly, often overtaking the central conductor in height. As a result of this, a shapeless, shaggy, extremely dense crown is formed with many branches extending at an acute angle.
The main tasks during the formation of the crown are:
– ensuring the leading position of the central conductor;
– maintaining equal growth;
– maintaining possible subordination of branches;
- ensuring good fouling of the main branches;
– prevention of early thickening of the crown;
- prevention of the formation of sharp forks with the threat of branch breakage.

If planting is carried out in the spring, then the branches of the crown should immediately be shortened. On autumn planting plants, pruning is done in early spring, before the buds swell. After pruning, the side branches should be approximately at the same level, and the central conductor should be 15–20 cm higher than the rest of the shoots.
Apple trees are quite winter-hardy and tolerate frosts down to −25–30 ° C; complete freezing of apple trees is a rare occurrence.
To protect against frost and rodents, the stem and the base of the branches should be wrapped with a net, then roofing paper or bitumen-impregnated paper, or old non-woven material, trunk circles should be spudded with loose soil taken from row spacing, with a layer of 30–35 cm. Against rodents, the Storm preparation is laid out in in the form of tablets: they take 2 tablets, put them on cardboard, and put a box upside down on top so that the box is not blown away by the wind, they put 2 bricks on it. Rodents easily go under the box and feed on pills, but cats and birds will not penetrate. In the spring, the strapping is removed, the seedlings are unraveled.
Caring for young apple trees: in the first year, top dressing is done with nitrogen fertilizers - root in early spring, and several foliar ones are carried out in May and June. For root dressing in 10 liters of water, dilute 3 tbsp. spoons of urea, 15 liters of solution are spent on 1 tree. Foliar top dressing is done with liquid fertilizers "Effekton-Ya" or "Universal Rossa" (3 tbsp. Spoons per 10 liters of water). You can use a more effective potassium humate "Prompter" universal (3 tablespoons per 15 liters of water).

12
oct
2010

The big book of the gardener and gardener (O. Ganichkina)

ISBN: 5-329-00746-1
Format: PDF, Scanned pages
Release year: 2007
Genre: Handbook (Gardening and horticulture)
Publisher: Onyx
Russian language
Number of pages: 860

Description:
Site planning
tillage
Seed preparation
Planting and protecting trees and shrubs
Basic work in the garden
Overview of 35 fruit and berry crops
Selection and placement of vegetable crops
Overview of over 50 vegetable crops
Harvest and storage
Growing greens and medicinal herbs in the garden, on the balcony, in the room
Collection and storage of greens and herbs
Overview of over 60 spices and medicinal herbs
Growing flower crops
Decoration techniques

31
May
2010

The big book of the gardener and gardener (Ganichkina Oktyabrina Alekseevna)

Format: JPG, Scanned pages
Release year: 2007
Genre: Encyclopedia
Publisher: Onyx
Russian language
Number of pages: 832
Description: Encyclopedia contains comprehensive information about the garden and vegetable garden. The book will interest both beginners and experienced gardeners and gardeners. 2nd edition, corrected and enlarged.
Add. Information: Contents Expand NOTICE TO READERS NEEDED INFORMATION The role of soil in growing plants Nutrients in soil composition
Fertilizers: types and methods of application The main methods of cultivation and soil preparation The choice of crops and planting sites Breeding ...

19
but I
2009

My beautiful cottage. Special issue "Lunar calendar of the gardener and gardener 2010"

Format: PDF
Release year: 2009
Genre: Monthly magazine
Author: Team of authors
Publisher: Publishing House Tasty World
Interface language: Russian
Number of pages: 16
Description: The monthly magazine "My Beautiful Dacha" contains a lot of useful tips, because it consists entirely of letters from readers - gardeners and gardeners. The practical experience they share makes the magazine an indispensable tool for everyone who has a dacha. Special issue "lunar calendar of the gardener and gardener 2010"
Add. Information: To view the log, it is recommended to use the Adobe Acrobat Reader, which ...

16
but I
2011

The big book of construction and repair (Simonov E.V.)

ISBN: 978-5-49807-048-3

Author: Simonov E. V.
Release year: 2010
Genre: Construction and repair
Publisher: Peter
Russian language
Number of pages: 416
Description: If you are thinking of building your own house or just renovating your apartment, this book is for you. Here you will find the most necessary and useful information: - construction of houses made of wood, brick, reinforced concrete, foam blocks; - all types of roofing and external finishing, insertion of windows and doors; - interior decoration of premises, European-quality repair.
Add. Information: You can perform most of the listed works with your own ...

01
May
2011

Big book of cakes and pastries (Suchkova E.M)

ISBN: 5-224-02144-8

Author: Suchkova E.M.
Release year: 2001
Genre: Cooking
Publisher: Olma-Press
Russian language
Number of pages: 209
Description: Cake can be a real work of art, not only culinary. Sugar icing will replace paints, marzipan - why not a material for an artist? And the taste of hand-baked cakes will once and for all wean you from buying pastries in the store. In the book of Elena Mikhailovna Suchkova, pastry chef, member of the Moscow Culinary Association, you will find more than 150 original recipes for making and decorating cakes, ...

02
sep
2013

What? What for? Why? Big Book of Questions and Answers (Kira Mishina, Anna Zykova)

ISBN: 5-04-008795-0
Format: DjVu, Scanned pages
Translator: Kira Mishina, Anna Zykova
Release year: 2004
Genre: Encyclopedia
Publisher: Eksmo
Russian language
Number of pages: 512
Description: On the pages of this book, the reader will find hundreds of questions and answers that will expand their knowledge about nature in all its forms, about science and technology, about history and culture, about the Earth and the Universe. Hundreds of clear and interesting explanations to satisfy curiosity; thousands of data and information; hundreds of attractive drawings and spectacular photographs... You can open any section of this book...

16
sep
2013

Alain Ducasse's big cookbook. Desserts and confectionery (Frédéric Robert)

Author: Frederic Robert
Release year: 2006
Genre: Cooking
Publisher: Stewart, Tabori and Chang
Russian language
Number of pages: 584
Description: A big book of recipes from the famous French master Alain Ducasse. In 2003, Forbes magazine included the name of this Frenchman in the list of the hundred most influential people in the world. He is the only Frenchman on this list. He is not a famous politician, not a writer, not a businessman, he is a chef, Alain Ducasse. It is called the standard of modern gastronomy. The famous French chef Alain Ducasse launches a culinary...

11
May
2015

The Big Book of Photography. A complete course of tricks and secrets for getting great shots (Tom Eng)

ISBN: 978-5-17-079198-9
Format: PDF, Scanned pages
Author: Tom Eng
Translator: Alexander Bankrashkov
Release year: 2013
Genre: Photography, digital imaging, hobby
Publisher: AST
Russian language
Number of pages: 408
Description: The fifth edition of the book of the world famous master of digital photography contains all the necessary information and practical advice, talks about the tricks and secrets of photography. This is the only guide that combines a complete set of professional techniques with a thorough presentation of the basics of working with an image. This book will help you improve your...

08
but I
2018

Encyclopedia of a gardener and florist for beginners in understandable drawings and diagrams (Galina Kizima)

ISBN: 978-5-17-094696-9
Series: Country library in convenient schemes
Format: PDF, eBook (originally computer)
Author: Galina Kizima
Release year: 2018
Genre: Encyclopedia. Garden
Publisher: AST
Russian language
Number of pages: 230
Description: How to grow a crop of berries and fruits in your garden without any extra effort, as well as set up a flower garden, will be described in this book by Galina Kizima, one of the most famous authors of books on gardening and gardening in our country. Drawings and diagrams will help beginners to better understand and remember the main points of plant care. Page examples

08
sep
2013

Big Book of Changes (Slapovsky Alexey)

Format: audiobook, MP3, 96kbps
Author: Slapovsky Alexey
Release year: 2013
Genre: Romance
Publisher: You can't buy anywhere
Artist: Erisanova Irina
Duration: 25:10:30
Description: Alexey Slapovsky - prose writer, playwright, screenwriter; perhaps one of the most unpredictable modern writers. To the question of journalists: "Where are you real", he invariably answers: "Everywhere!" The new novel "The Big Book of Changes" has everything: love (of three friends for her classmate, a young girl for a rich robber, a husband for his wife), and loss (of friends, health, loved one, himself), and success (on stage, in profession...

18
Feb
2017

The Big Book of Soups (Anne Shesby)

ISBN: 978-5-373-04890-3
Format: PDF, eBook (originally computer)
Author: Ann Shezby
Release year: 2013
Genre: Cooking
Publisher: Olma Media Group
Russian language
Number of pages: 241
Description: More than 100 recipes for classic and modern soups with step-by-step instructions and color photographs. A fantastic variety of selected recipes from the world cuisine - Mediterranean, French, Hungarian, Mexican, Russian, Thai, Japanese and many other soups, cold and hot, some of which are also suitable for vegetarians. The book presents soups made from vegetables, legumes, meat, poultry, ...

11
june
2015

The Big Book of the Computer (Vasily Leonov)

ISBN: 978-5-699-75172-3
Format: PDF, OCR without errors
Author: Vasily Leonov
Release year: 2015
Genre: Computer Literature
Publisher: Eksmo
Series: Computer 100%
Russian language
Number of pages: 400
Description: There are more and more computer owners every year, but only a few of them go beyond games and social networks. In order not to remain a teapot further, but to become a full-fledged user, you will need an assistant - an encyclopedia, which is simply necessary for any person dealing with a computer. The information contained in it will be useful as a novice user ...

05
Jan
2016

The Big Book of Knots (Colin Germain)

ISBN: 978-5-93395-317-3, 978-1-84573-208-0
Format: PDF, Scanned pages
Author: Colin Germain
Translator: Veronika Venyukova
Release year: 2008
Genre: Home economics. Household recommendations
Publisher: Kladez-Buks
Russian language
Number of pages: 128
Description: Step-by-step instructions, illustrated with color photographs, introduce the technique of knitting the most necessary and common knots - marine, climbing, tourist, fishing and even decorative. The book opens with an introductory chapter, in which you will find information on how to choose the right rope and save it...

06
aug
2013

Big cookbook (Gilyarova I.N.)

ISBN: 978-5-699-13213-3
Format: PDF, Scanned pages
Author: Gilyarova I.N.
Release year: 2008
Genre: Cooking
Publisher: Eksmo
Russian language
Number of pages: 256
Description: Tasty and healthy food is not only a holiday in the house, but also excellent health and good mood. Cooking such food, using the advice of this book, is a real pleasure. Here you can find a huge variety of dishes: salads, appetizers, soups, meat and poultry roasts, fish, vitamin drinks, gourmet desserts, delicious pastries. The recipes describe in detail the sequence of their preparation ...

07
Feb
2015

The Big Book of Tea (Olga Ivenskaya (ed.))

ISBN: 978-5-699-71538-1
Format: PDF, Scanned pages
Author: Olga Ivenskaya (ed.)
Translator: I. Vasilyeva
Release year: 2015
Genre: Cooking
Publisher: Eksmo
Series: Wines and drinks of the world
Russian language
Number of pages: 272
Description: Tea is the most popular drink in the world. It is drunk in a variety of ways from the Far North to remote southern villages in Argentina. It will warm you in the cold and refresh you in the heat. Each country has its own tea ceremony, its own ritual, its own unique way of preparation. Our book is a guide to the enchanting world of tea cultures of various countries and peoples. You uz...

15
but I
2009

Big book of favorite fairy tales

Format: PDF, Scanned pages
Release year: 2008
Author: Ch.Perro,H.-K.Andersen,Brothers Grimm
Genre: fairy tale
Publisher: ROSMEN
Number of pages: 128
Description: The best fairy tales of famous children's storytellers.
CONTENTS: little red riding hood puss in boots the bremen town musicians little finger ugly duckling inch cinderella brave little tailor snow white sleeping beauty hansel and gretel tenacious tin soldier rapunzel the king's new outfit the little mermaid

The book includes answers to questions from radio listeners, readers and listeners of my courses for amateur gardeners. So this is a joint work of many, many people, and I sincerely express my gratitude to everyone, because without questions there would be no answers.

All materials are grouped into the following sections: "Garden crops", "Garden crops", "Ornamental plants", "Healthy cooking". At the beginning of each section answers are given to questions of a general nature, and then specific to each culture in alphabetical order.

You can ask any questions you have in a special section on my website: www.kizima.ru or by e-mail:

1. Are birds useful in the garden?

Depends on what. Titmouse, flycatcher, robin, blue tit, redstart, wagtail, moskovka, nuthatch, woodpecker, jackdaw are very useful. But I would not let starlings and magpies into the garden, because they cause great damage to berries. Titmouse are easy to attract to the garden by tying unsalted fat to tree trunks, hanging titmouse, feeding birds, especially in winter, with seeds (raw). And most importantly - do not use pesticides. It has been observed that after the application of nitrafen, birds do not appear in the garden for 5-6 years. After applying Inta-vir, the birds immediately leave the garden.

2. How to properly deal with garden pests?

Firstly, it must be done on time, and secondly, if possible, do not use chemical poisons.

Spraying the garden (ends of branches, branches, forks, trunks and soil under plants) in late autumn and early spring with concentrated mineral fertilizer (700 g of carbamide, that is, urea, per 10 liters of water), you will save the garden from pests wintering on plants and under them. This spraying can not be done from the moment the buds swell until the plants leave for winter dormancy. Otherwise you will burn them!

This measure, however, does not save the garden from pests arriving from other places, in particular, from the codling moth. Here the homeopathic preparation "Healthy Garden" ("Aurum-S") comes to the rescue. Spraying the garden once a month in May (at the time the leaves unfold), June, July and August, you will protect it not only from the codling moth, but also from scab on apple trees.

During the May spraying, it is better to combine "Healthy Garden" with another homeopathic remedy - "Ecoberin" ("Eye"), dissolving 2 grains of each in a liter of water. It is convenient to add 4 drops of "Uniflora-growth" to the same solution. In this way, two spring sprayings of the garden can be combined at once. By the way, Fitoverm is compatible with all these drugs, so it can also be added (10 drops per liter).

3. What, in your opinion, is the most harmless remedy for pests in the orchard?

The most environmentally friendly and completely harmless remedy is the homeopathic preparation "Healthy Garden". It will help you get rid of almost any pests.

They all prefer sugar and attack those plants whose cell sap is dominated by carbohydrates. Strong, healthy plants synthesize protein quickly and have few carbohydrates in their cell sap. Weak, sick people synthesize protein slowly, and carbohydrates predominate in their cell sap. Here they are attacked by literally all pests. "Healthy Garden" ("Aurum-S") changes the structure of cell sap in such a way that it carries information about the normal balance between carbohydrates and proteins. This fools the pests. To constantly maintain this balance, all plants should be regularly sprayed with this drug. As my experience has shown, it is enough to spray the garden in May, June, July and August on the leaves in the evening so that the drug is absorbed and not evaporated from the leaves. The absorption process lasts about 3-4 hours, so the weather must be dry, at least for this time, so that rain does not wash the drug off the leaves.

There are very interesting observations of amateur gardeners on the use of this drug on vegetable crops and flowers. The drug is diluted at the rate of 2 grains per liter of water, poured into a barrel (respectively, 400 grains are required for 200 liters of water) with an infusion of weeds, mixed thoroughly and simply feed all plants with this composition once every 2-3 weeks, in watering. Plants become literally tropical, their greenery is so powerful. Try it.

4. Is it necessary to dig the soil under bushes and trees?

Pests can be destroyed in other ways.

Weeds should be cut 3-4 times during the season with a Fokin flat cutter or a sickle and left right there, under the plants.

Soil air exchange and moisture permeability will be excellent if you do not dig up the soil, disrupting the complex system of microtubules that form when numerous hair sucking roots rot each season.

Therefore, it is not necessary to dig the soil either in autumn or in spring. If it contains about 4% humus, then it does not compact and does not need to be dug up, it is enough to loosen it in the spring. You and I do not need to dig up the near-trunk circles twice a year, but gradually make the soil in them fertile and drive pests out of our garden.

5. What is Ecoberin used for?

"Ekoberin" protects plants from various weather troubles (drought, frost, sharp temperature changes day and night, prolonged cooling).

6. What are these biological preparations - "Fitoverm" and "Agravertin" - and are they dangerous for people?

No, they are not dangerous, because they are made from soil microorganisms ("Agravertin") and soil microfungi ("Fitosporin"). Therefore, nature knows how to dispose of them without disturbing the ecological situation. They are absorbed by the green leaf and function in the cell sap of the plant for 3 weeks, then the plant uses them for its own needs. During these 3 weeks, in any leaf-sucking (aphid, thrips, tick, scab) or leaf-eating (caterpillar, beetle) pest that has tasted the juice or pulp of the plant, the drugs cause paralysis of the gastrointestinal tract, and after 2 hours it stops eating. Death occurs two days later from starvation. For beneficial insects or birds that eat such pests, the drugs are not dangerous, because they do not act indirectly. By the way, the drug "Agravertin" is sold under the name "Akarin" or "Iskra-bio".

In early spring, these drugs are effective against weevil on garden strawberries (strawberries), goose (apple beetle) on apple trees, red-gall aphids on red currants, which cause crimson swellings (galls) on the leaves. Plants can be treated with these preparations even during fruiting (fruits are edible 48 hours after spraying).

7. Why do pests, especially aphids, literally en masse attack plants in the spring, including healthy ones, and how to rid the garden of this scourge?

The fact is that all pests (both ticks and insects) prefer to eat carbohydrates. In the spring, the roots of any garden plant begin to work and supply the minerals necessary to create protein only after the soil in the root zone warms up to 8 ° C, and photosynthesis begins literally 20 seconds after the leaf begins to unfold. Since there is no material for the production of protein, the leaf produces carbohydrates, since this requires carbon dioxide, which the plant can take from the air, and water, some of which is always present in plants, so pests fly from all sides.

From the author

This book was written by an amateur gardener for the same amateur gardeners, and therefore is free from scientific terminology and Latin, understandable only to specialists in this field. Unfortunately, there is still an opinion among them that amateur gardeners are some kind of annoying hindrance to the development of the country's agriculture, and therefore their requests can be ignored. But it is no secret that more than 60% of all vegetable and green products and 80% of potatoes in our country are produced precisely in garden plots and household plots. We don't grow crops just because our tiny plots of land don't allow us that luxury. But 90% of fruit and berry crops grow on these patches of land. In fact, 16 million household and garden plots almost completely provide their own population with berries and fruits. It is high time to take into account the needs and satisfy the interests of one tenth of the country's population.

Manufacturers of mineral fertilizers, seeds, and means of protection have already begun to reckon with our interests (what can they do if the main buyers of their products at present are amateur gardeners!). But experts in the field of agricultural technology are not in a hurry to help us, and stubbornly continue to write articles and books exclusively for themselves. Maybe in the near future the bison of agriculture will descend to us, mere mortals, not very educated in their field, but very inquisitive and with tremendous experience in this very agricultural science, and finally write popular books for us. In the meantime, an amateur has to fill this gap, and it is quite natural that his amateurish ears sometimes stick out in the text, from which the specialist wriggles. But what to do. For the sake of the popularity of the presentation, scientific accuracy has to be sacrificed - any popular book should, first of all, be interesting and understandable to the reader. In addition, it should contain useful and reliable information suitable for practical use.

Now quite a lot of popular literature is published, written by amateurs, the information in which is often contradictory. The question is who to believe? And you need to believe in experience, and therefore my advice to you is: trusting, verify! Only as a result of personal experience will you be able to create your own land use system on your site that will satisfy you both in terms of physical, mental and financial costs, and in terms of the results obtained.

The state takes care of the consumers of agricultural products in a peculiar way: it buys expensive and far from safe imported fruits and fruits for foreign currency from foreign firms. My dear readers, you, of course, have noticed that beautiful, reminiscent of synthetic toys, agricultural imported products have neither taste nor smell, they can lie for months and not deteriorate. Even decay bacteria are too tough for it, it is so crammed with pesticides, which are processed up to 18-20 times per season! This product is not only not useful, it is harmful! Before use, it should be soaked for a couple of hours in the Healthy Garden preparation in order to remove all these reserves of chemical waste and excess nitrates from the subcutaneous layer of berries, vegetables and fruits. If you do not have this wonderful drug, then at least hold the products, especially green ones, in clean filtered water if you use running water. This is especially important in families with small children to protect them from allergies. You can get reliable information about Healthy Garden and Ecoberin preparations, which are your personal ecological umbrella, on the Internet.

And even better - to grow environmentally friendly products for your own family on your own six acres.

Good luck to you, dear readers, in this exciting field! Dare, boldly experiment, find new approaches and techniques to facilitate work on the site and, most importantly, share your experience with others. You can contact me by email: [email protected]

Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima

garden crops

Chapter first
NEW IDEAS IN LAND USE ON SIX AREAS

In fact, the new ideas are well-known old truths about natural land use that we have taken and discarded with the global advance of technological progress that happened literally a hundred years ago. Tractors and deep plowing of the land with the overturning of the layers, which they provided, of course, facilitated work on the land, but at the same time caused enormous damage to the soil. They practically destroyed the fertile lands on the planet. And it turned out quite naturally that no overdose of mineral fertilizers and even organic matter can significantly increase the yield of dead lands. They say that the earth is “tired”, and in order to bring it back to life, the field is given a “day off”, that is, green manure is sown on it and not touched for a couple of years. And here are the miracles! Fertility has been restored! The best harvests for the first 2-3 years are given by virgin lands, not plowed by man.

Have you ever thought about why nature does not plow, does not fertilize, but its fertility increases, while ours decreases? Yes, because we have violated the basic commandment "Do no harm!" So what are we doing to the soil? First of all, digging the earth.

Don't dig!

Let's see why digging is bad.

There are at least five reasons, and first of which is as follows.

We are accustomed to consider the earth as inorganic matter, that is, inanimate, and treat it accordingly. And the soil is a very complex living organism, with its own hierarchical structure, its own laws of community, densely populated by microorganisms and lower animal organisms, such as, for example, earthworms. The upper layer of the soil, at a depth of about 5–20 cm, is inhabited by microfungi and bacteria - aerobes, that is, those lower organisms that need oxygen for their existence. In addition, earthworms have chosen this layer. In the lower layer, approximately at a depth of 20–40 cm, anaerobic bacteria are located, for which oxygen is harmful, they need carbon dioxide. When digging to the depth of the bayonet of a shovel, turning the layer over, we swap these layers, and each type of microorganism finds itself in an unfavorable environment. In the meantime, most of them die.

It takes at least 2-5 years to restore the broken hierarchy. The soil, devoid of microorganisms, becomes dead, loses its fertility, since this soil fertility is created and maintained by the microorganisms and earthworms inhabiting the earth. And no amount of fertilizer will help here until its population is restored on each floor.

In addition, the soil, losing its inhabitants, along with them loses its structure, and therefore collapses. Such soil is washed away by rains and carried away by winds. Eminent soil scientists wrote about this, such as A. T. Bolotov at the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th century, I. E. Ovsinsky, I. Bochinsky in the middle of the 19th century, and finally, V. V. Dokuchaev at the end of the 19th century, who opposed the deep plowing of the land with the overturning of the layer. No one wished to take into account the works of P. A. Kostychev and the experience of T. S. Maltsev almost today. Alas, the age of technological progress has come, which led to the appearance of tractors, and the process of soil destruction began. Even the bright minds of mankind could not stop it, so at present we have what we have: almost completely ruined fertile lands on the planet, an inexorable decline in soil fertility, respectively, a drop in yield from each square meter of cultivated area.

The soil cannot be strongly compacted, and this happens when using heavy equipment (remember at least such a monster as the Kirovets tractor), since excessive compaction of the soil layers also leads to the death of soil microorganisms. You probably have your own experience on this subject. Remember: when you pour a large pile of earth, for example, taken from the place where you are going to build a house, and then want to use it for beds, you suddenly find that the soil has somehow become barren, although you piled it up, mostly sod .

Large doses of mineral fertilizers cannot be applied to the soil with impunity, since this has a detrimental effect on its inhabitants. You and I cannot reason with all of humanity, but on our own plots we are quite capable of suspending disastrous agriculture and restoring the lost (more precisely, that never existed on our plots) soil fertility.

For starters, stop digging, and even twice a year! In recent years, more and more serious and not so serious works have appeared in the literature in support of this appeal. We must pay tribute to at least a few scientists who have done a lot for our enlightenment on this issue. I mean the American Alan Chadwick and his follower John Jevons, the founders of the biodynamic school of agriculture, as well as our contemporaries - scientists Yu. I. Slashchinin, N. I. Kurdyumov, A. A. Komarov, V. I. Kuznetsov and many others .

The second reason, on which one should not dig and plow with turning over the earth layer, is as follows. When digging the soil, we break all the microchannels through which moisture and air penetrate into the arable layer. As a result, moisture and air do not enter the zone of sucking roots, normal respiration and plant nutrition are disturbed. Usually such soil during rains turns into a viscous substance like plasticine, and after drying it turns into “reinforced concrete”. The roots literally suffocate, the plant weakens. What a harvest. Plants "not up to fat, to be alive."

How are these microchannels formed in the soil?

The fact is that the root system of plants is huge. It not only can go as deep as 2–5 m (in beets, for example, the central root can penetrate as deep as 3–4 m), but also branches in all directions, and each of these roots is covered with hundreds of thousands of sucking hairs, the total length of which can reach 10 km! As a result, every inch of the earth is literally riddled with these hairs. When the above-ground part of the plant dies, soil microorganisms begin to eat the remnants of the roots. As a result, microscopic channels are formed, through which moisture penetrates, and after it is absorbed by the soil, air rushes into the soil through the channels. In addition, there are moves that worms make in the soil. And they also serve as channels for water and air, only larger. Through all these passages, the roots of the next generation of plants easily penetrate deep into the soil. We are strongly advised to do autumn digging of the soil in order to destroy the pests that have settled down to winter in the surface layer of the soil, and also so that moisture penetrates between the clods, freezes and expands the passages for spring water and air, which will rush through these cracks into the soil layer. Yes, of course, some of the pests die, but we completely disrupt the system of water and air exchange, replacing it with several large gaps. In the spring, when we re-dig, we finally destroy the channels created by the roots and bacteria. With such a double digging, this entire complex system is destroyed, and the soil becomes so caked in dry times that it has to be literally hollowed out.

The third reason on which you should not dig and plow, is very simple. During autumn digging, we bring all the seeds of weeds from the surface into the soil, where they remain until spring. And when we re-dig in the spring, we bring the overwintered weed seeds back to the surface, which immediately begin to germinate.

The fourth reason on which the soil should not be dug up is that after digging we usually leave the surface of the soil "bare", or, as they say, fallow. This leads to drying and destruction of its uppermost layer, in addition, “a holy place is never empty”, and weeds will immediately begin to take place under the sun. You can't leave the soil bare. It should not be dug up, but covered from above with any mulching material. The easiest way to do this is the way nature does, that is, it covers the earth with vegetation and its organic remains. In autumn - fallen leaves and the aerial part of dead annuals. In spring - young green shoots.

Why is she doing this? In autumn, to return the organic matter used up by plants to the soil and to cover the surface root system from frost (where there is frost). In spring, to cover the surface from direct sunlight, to protect the top layer from drying out and destruction.

Fifth reason lies in the fact that during digging, the upper, most fertile, part of the soil containing humus is scattered throughout the entire thickness of the dug layer. Humus, as it were, is washed away or smeared, and since there is so little of it in poor soils, the fertility of the root layer practically decreases. Humus always "floats" into the top layer. But when will that happen! Humus should be protected and highly valued, and not destroyed by digging.

So, the earth is a living organism, and one cannot interfere thoughtlessly and with impunity in its life.

Soil fertility is created by the indigenous inhabitants of the earth - microorganisms and earthworms. They must be protected. Digging destroys soil fertility.

What to do?

Like what! Of course, to grow, groom, cherish the inhabitants of the soil and loosen, only loosen the soil so as not to harm them!

Instead of a shovel, you will use a Fokine flat cutter. It has a pointed end, so you will make furrows first along, then across, deepening it into the soil by about 5 cm. If necessary, then disassemble with a rake. By the way, a rake can also be used to loosen the topsoil.

There is another good tool - Kuzmich's shovel. These are, in essence, pitchforks, the ends of the teeth of which are soldered to a pointed triangle. You cut this triangle into the ground by 3-4 cm, lift the soil with a shovel, and it spills out through the pitchfork back to the ground. This way you do not turn the soil over when digging. A manual cultivator is best suited for such surface tillage, which, in addition to the wheels loosening the soil, also has a cutting plate.

This work can be done with a sharpened chopper, a weeder "Swift" and other devices. There are quite a few of them on sale right now. The only requirement for such tools is that they must be very well sharpened. And don't believe in self-sharpening. The tool must be sharpened before each use, then the work will go smoothly. These tools should not be buried below 5-7 cm into the soil, and they should not mix the formations. You can dig with an ordinary shovel, but only superficially and without turning the earth over when digging. Don't worry about the roots, they will find their way into the deeper layers, penetrating into the microchannels left from the root system of the previous tenants (unless, of course, you destroyed them by digging). So the roots do not need deep digging.

So, do not dig, but loosen!

The impoverishment of the earth

This is a frequently observed phenomenon. The soil ceases to "work", "strike", crops fall on it. And then we begin to increase the doses of mineral fertilizers, buy or store manure. But after a while, everything "returns to normal." Nature does not sow green manure, does not bring manure in such quantities, and even more so does not make mineral fertilizers, as we do, but from year to year it grows huge forests and meadows, and everything is in order. What's the matter?

But the fact is that plants, due to solar energy, increase organic mass much more than that which they take out of the soil, destroying humus, that is, they do not deplete, but, on the contrary, increase the fertility of the earth. How do they succeed and why can't we? Have you seen nature raking and taking away, and even burning fallen leaves and dead plants? What are we doing? Not only do we take out the nutrients stored in the fruits with the harvest from the soil, and we do not return the loot. We also remove fallen leaves and plant residues, interfering with the normal process of humus restoration. Where does it come from if there is no source material? In addition, we destroy the natural structure of the soil by endless digging. And in such soil there are practically no inhabitants. Note that barren soil is like gray, lifeless dust.

To improve soil fertility, it is usually recommended to sow the field with green manure or leave it to "walk", that is, do not sow anything on it. It, of course, will immediately overgrow with weeds, which, like specially sown green manure, are recommended to be dug up in a year or two. And what kind of siderates are these?

siderates- These are plants on the roots of which live bacteria that can take nitrogen from the air and accumulate it in the soil. The green above-ground mass, being dug together with the soil to a depth of only 5–7 cm, will introduce organic matter into it necessary for the life of microorganisms. The rest will be done by the inhabitants of the soil - microorganisms and earthworms. Peas, alfalfa, vetch, clover, lupine can be sown as green manure. It is also recommended to make bacterial preparations of AMB, Azotobacterin, Phosphorobacterin, Nitragin. That is, it is proposed to populate the field with bacteria. The same thing happens when the preparations "Baikal EM", "Renaissance" or "Shine", as well as microbial fertilizers such as "Fitosporin", "Bamila" are applied.

A “walking” field is by no means kept fallow, that is, “naked”. It is populated by plants, and, oddly enough, tired, depleted soil is perfectly restored. Why does it get tired and exhausted in our country, but not in nature? Yes, because nature does not dig and does not take anything from its fields. Everything returns to the ground, and with large percentages.

So let's follow nature, take less and give more. How? Starting from spring itself, all summer do not take away weeds from the beds, from under the bushes and trees, but leave them to lie in the aisles of plantings on the beds and under plantings. And in the fall, do not rake and do not take out the fallen leaves, but rather, rake them from the paths for planting along the perimeter of the crown of bushes, trees, to the vacated beds. Sow the vacated area with white mustard. Do not cut off the dead above-ground part of perennial flowers, but leave it. When the autumn frosts break the stems, they themselves will fall to the ground, covering the center of the tillering of the plant, and thereby cover it from freezing, in addition, they will retain snow no worse than spruce branches. In the spring, simply cut and leave their own leaves and stems to rot under the plants. Don't worry, after a couple of weeks this unpresentable look will disappear. And in order not to accumulate any infection, in spring and autumn, pour over the plants and the soil under them with a solution of "Fitosporin". That's all there is to it. Plant residues from the surface of the soil will disappear, because the worms will drag them along their passages into the ground. And before that, for some time they will serve as a mulching material, that is, they will cover open places on the soil and prevent moisture from evaporating from the surface, and the soil structure from collapsing.

Do not remove roots and aerial parts of plants after harvesting. Leave everything in the garden. If you are afraid of pathogens on these plant debris, then treat the beds directly on them with Fitosporin. The live bacterium-predator, which is in this preparation, during the autumn will “eat” the pathogens of any fungal and bacterial diseases, unlike the bacteria mentioned above, it dies not at one degree of frost, but at minus 20 degrees. If your region has warm winters, then it will safely overwinter in the soil and will continue to serve as an orderly in your beds. And if your winters are harsh, then there is usually a lot of snow, and under this “fur coat” she has a great chance to survive.

Of course, pests wintering under plant remains cannot be destroyed in this way, but you can also find control over them if you take good care of your pets.

So, the reason for the impoverishment of the soil with unreasonable land use lies not only in digging the earth, but also in the systematic cleaning of plant remains.

If all the time you only take out of the soil, then nothing will remain in it. You have to return sometime.

The easiest way to grow humus is through compost right on the beds and under perennial plantings.

Don't weed!

How so? Everything will grow! Up to the chest!

Not weeding does not mean not to fight weeds. It is absolutely necessary to fight with them, otherwise these native children of nature will simply force out the stepchildren of nature - our cultivated plants - from the site. Nature has awarded its own children with extraordinary vitality, so weeds will certainly win in the struggle for a place under the sun.

What to do?

Regularly cut off perennial weeds at the root. I repeat: systematically! - that's what's important. And it is necessary to cut the weeds at the age when it is easiest to do this, that is, at their height of no more than 5–10 cm. And shave the weeds off the face of the earth. The best result is a slight penetration into the soil, 2-3 cm. You simply cut the weeds and leave them on the soil. What does it give?

Firstly, weeds are suppressed. No plant during the growing season can do without the aerial part for a long time. Roots that do not receive their share from the work of chlorophyll in green leaves are doomed to death. Of course, from the buds of renewal on the roots, new stems will immediately go. And you again - under the root. Do not just let them grow above 5-10 cm, otherwise the roots will have time to “come to their senses”, that is, to regain the supply of nutrients that the aerial part of the plant supplies them. So, by making 3-4 cuts in a row at the beginning of the season, you will practically get rid of perennial weeds for the whole summer, because the weed roots that are left without the aerial part will die and, rotting, will provide additional nutrition for the roots of cultural plantings. That is, you will additionally enrich the soil with humus in the same way as it happens in nature.

You can, of course, not cut, but simply mow the weeds, but again, the main thing is to do this systematically, preventing them from growing too high. An ordinary scythe or a sickle is suitable for this work, but, believe me, it is much less laborious to use an electric scythe. There is such a wonderful scythe in Usadba Moto. For those who want to get more detailed information, I give the website address: www.usadba-moto.ru By the way, this spit has a nozzle that turns it into a cultivator that loosens the soil! It is not necessary to buy it immediately with a scythe. The use of this simple, relatively inexpensive and light (weight about 4.5 kg) equipment can significantly facilitate the work on the site. And save time and energy. I assure you that after processing, the electric slanting section acquires a very, very well-groomed and even sleek look. Or use a trimmer. If you missed the mowing time and the grasses had time to spike (and you can’t put ears in the compost), mow only the tops. They are put into the fire, and everything else is mowed down and laid out right on the beds among the plantings. And you can again mow the top half, and then the bottom and leave the mowing right in place.

The electric motor on the spit is located in the upper part and does not come into contact with the soil, as, for example, with a trimmer, and therefore it is possible to mow with dew. By the way, the company "Usadba-moto" has all kinds of equipment for the garden plot, which works not only on electricity, but also on gasoline. It is more convenient to use in large areas.

Why not compost cut weeds, but leave them in place? Yes, because you mulch the soil with them and its top layer does not dry out and does not collapse.

So, shaving weeds gets rid of perennial weeds.

Secondly, you will significantly reduce the watering of your plantings, because the mulched soil does not allow moisture to evaporate from the soil surface and, in addition, it absorbs the dew that falls at night much more (by the way, the same is done by surface loosening of the soil to a depth of no more than 3-4 cm).

Thirdly, this layer of weeds, gradually rotting, returns fertility to the soil.

Fourth, you get rid of the extra work of carrying weeds to compost, and in the fall from posting compost that has rotted over the past years around the site.

Fifth If you do not annually apply unrotted organic residues directly to the beds, then the soil microorganisms will have nothing to “eat”, their numbers will decrease, and the soil will gradually become scarce, because the plants destroy and use the humus in the upper layer.

Why shouldn't weed anyway? After all, if you systematically weed, then there will be no weeds either.

The difference is that by cutting off the growth point underground or by cutting the above ground part, you cause the same stem to grow again. One. And as soon as you dig or tear out a weed, then on all the scraps of the root system remaining in the soil, renewal buds will immediately wake up, and this will provoke the growth of a whole horde of weeds instead of one. This is very easy to check. Dig up and water one dandelion plant in the spring, and cut another nearby. After a couple of weeks, look and you will see that one plant has appeared again in the place of the cut plant, and many more in the place of the plucked one. This is another way for survival, which Mother Nature has bestowed upon her children. They renew themselves from the smallest part of the root or rhizome left in the ground.

Well, we have learned how to deal with perennial rhizomatous weeds. But what about weed seeds in vegetable beds? There is no way to do without weeding!

And here it is not. It turns out that in the beds they can be strongly pressed. In any case, you can do without tedious hours of weeding. For this, all you need to do is grow weeds in the beds in advance.

In the spring, when you arrive at your site, it’s better even before the last snow melts, you scatter ash or peat on the beds right on the snow to slightly blacken their surface. Then you cover the beds with bits of old film, lay them out on top of the poles so that the film does not lift up or be blown away by the wind. In the spring, the sun bakes well and under a layer of film, the blackened snow on the beds will quickly melt, the surface layer of the soil will warm up, and weeds will quickly sprout from it. This will happen in about 10-12 days. If after two weeks you visit your site and see that the weeds have sprouted, remove the film, loosen the topsoil and leave the beds open for a day. Young seedlings of weeds will die.

Weeds are most vulnerable when they have only two cotyledon leaves. At this moment, they have only a weak hair of the central root, and if they are just loosened right now, they will die. But once they have true leaves, fighting them becomes tedious. Firstly, they have already formed lateral branches of the root, which means that as soon as you weed the beds and remove the weeds, new ones will immediately climb out of all the scraps of roots. Secondly, if you leave the weeded plants in the garden, then after the first rain in the next 2-3 days, the weeds will take root and continue to grow as if nothing had happened. Therefore, weeds in the beds should be destroyed as early as possible.

After you have loosened the first shoots of weeds, in a day you cover the beds again with a film and calmly leave for another 1-2 weeks. Arriving at the site for the second time, you will again see shoots of weeds under the film. These are the seeds that came up from the deeper layers of the soil. Repeat the same operation again. A day later, you can sow the seeds in beds freed from weeds. But at the same time, you must understand that such a bed before sowing should not be dug up! Otherwise, from the lower layers of the soil, you will again take out the weed seeds to the upper layer, and they will sprout safely.

The fact is that in the entire thickness of the soil there are seeds of weeds. They are stored in a deep layer, like money in a bank. But as soon as these seeds fall into the top layer, they immediately begin to germinate. The whole trick is that the length of the subcotyledon knee (the distance from the root neck to the cotyledons) does not exceed 7 cm, so they do not emerge from the lower soil layer, but simply lie there and wait for years for their chance.

The work of pre-growing weeds in the garden is small and not hard at all. It just needs to be done on time. At least instead of doing the difficult and completely pointless watering of the garden with boiling water in the early spring. But this simple undertaking of pre-growing weeds in the garden will save you from the laborious weeding of the beds throughout the season.

If you didn’t have time to do this, you arrived at the site, and all the vegetable beds are covered with a green carpet of weeds, then take the Swift weeder or Fokin’s flat cutter - and go! It is necessary to cut off all the weeds from the surface of the beds, deepening into the soil by 4–5 cm, and leave the weeds to wallow in the garden for a day. After that, make furrows with the edge of the board, spill them well with water (preferably from a kettle), “salt” the planting grooves with the dust fraction of the wonderful AVA fertilizer (you can get information about this fertilizer on the Internet at the website [email protected] and on the website www. avamarket.com) and sow the seeds of vegetables and herbs. Lightly level the soil on crops. Seal with a board and cover the beds with an old film, fix it. Until emergence, the film will retain moisture and heat in the soil. Naturally, as soon as shoots appear, the film must be removed, and the aisles should be loosened in order to destroy weed shoots. Weeds can be left right on the bed if the weather is dry. If you have sown long-term crops (carrots, dill, parsley), then weed shoots may appear before your crops, and while loosening the weeds, you can accidentally drop into rows with crops. In such cases, among the seeds of those crops that germinate for a long time, it is necessary to sow several seeds of the lighthouse culture, which germinate quickly, distributing the seeds throughout the row. Radishes, lettuce, spinach sprout quickly. They will mark the rows of crops.

Agree, it is much easier to walk 2-3 times a season with a weeder or a small Fokine flat cutter among the crops than to weed the beds, kneeling for hours. You just need to accustom yourself to some discipline and do this work on time.